Yes. Any time you change the ride height or do anything with the suspension in a Subaru, you need a full wheel alignment. I recommend a specialist suspension shop with Subaru experience not a basic tyre retailer. They may charge more but will do a much better job.

Manufacturers provide specifications for wheel alignments so proper steering, handling & tyre wear characteristics are maintained.

The "specs" are very broad and can include front camber settings of -0.8° to +0.8°.

A negative number is called negative camber and is where the wheel/tyre leans IN at the top. During cornering as the car leans over, a wheel with negative camber straightens up and the tread sits flush on the road. This is good for grip & tyre wear.

A positive number is called positive camber and is where the wheel/tyre leans OUT at the top. During cornering as the car leans over, a wheel with positive camber will lean over even more so that only the outside shoulder contacts the road. This is terrible for grip & tyre wear.

An alignment can have +0.5° positive camber in the front & still be "in spec", yet this is a terrible alignment.

A lifted Subaru needs as much negative front camber as possible. -0.25° negative camber is excellent, and with some older models with a SubieLiftOz lift kit, -0.5° negative camber can be achieved!

Macpherson strut rear models: Eg, SF-SG Forester; BG Outback; GC-GD Impreza: 

You will need aftermarket camber bolts* for the rear to be able to adjust the camber (the front has factory camber bolts but not the rear).  

Multilink rear models: Eg, SH-SK Forester; BR-BT Outback; XV/Crosstrek: 

Aftermarket camber bolts are not required for multilink models. The rear multilink spacer kit will keep the rear alignment in spec. 

* Aftermarket camber bolts need to be 14mm, grade 12.9, like Nolathane 44260 or Whiteline KCA414. Don’t use Ironman, they are only grade 10.9 & are not strong enough. You can get them from eBay, Amazon or autoparts stores

The front struts in your Subaru (all models) have factory camber bolts, this is all you need here for most applications. Do NOT replace the factory camber bolts with aftermarket ones, this is dangerous & illegal. If you need more adjustment in the front, fit aftermarket camber bolts to the bottom holes in addition to the factory ones in the top holes

* The original CV boots go hard & brittle with age, so sometimes they crack or split some time after lifting. If this happens, don't wait till all the grease gets spat out & the CV runs dry, this will kill it. Get it rebooted immediately with OEM CV boots & high quality grease. Then you’re good to go! 

* If you don’t fix it in time, get a set of second hand OEM axles from a low km car at a wrecker, then reboot them with OEM Subaru CV boots & quality CV grease (usually just the inners need doing). Or you can buy them new from a dealership (prices have come down recently) 

* Use only GENUINE OEM Subaru axles & GENUINE OEM Subaru CV boots with quality CV grease - aftermarket axles & boots just don’t last on lifted Subarus & can cause other issues too.

* If you keep having CV boot issues with genuine boots, your transmission mounts are probably worn. See #4 below

* Genuine Subaru axles are like a $1000 pair of shoes and the CV boots are like the laces. Don’t throw them out just because the laces (CV boots) break!!

Most of the vibration or wobbling problems you hear about with CVs are usually from using cheap aftermarket axles or worn/soft transmission mounts:

1. Use only GENUINE Subaru axles & GENUINE Subaru CV boots with quality CV grease (aftermarket axles & boots just don’t last on lifted Subarus)

2. Check the front lower control arm (LCA) front bush on newer models (esp SJ Forester, BS Outback & XV/Crosstrek). Recently, this has been shown to cause a steering wobble at about 80-100kph (50-60mph). Replace with a urethane bush if needed (front bush) or genuine rubber bush (rear). Don’t use urethane on the LCA rear bush, they crack/split very quickly

3. Make sure the transmission mounts are in good condition. Worn/soft mounts or loose trans mount bolts are the main cause of CV issues

4. Fit a trans mount insert. We now know a worn transmission mount causes most of the recurring CV issues that some people have or that low speed wobble/vibration under acceleration. A trans mount insert is an easy, cheap & effective solution. Or some people replace the trans mount with a Group N mount

When you accelerate hard esp in 1st, the large amount of torque tries to twist the transmission. With soft or worn trans mounts, this lifts one side & pushes it further away to the other side, so you get more CV angle plus it stretches the CV. It's a double whammy! This causes the dreaded vibration/wobble. The trans mount insert fits inside the OEM transmission mount to stiffen it up so this doesn't happen.

* I have a suspicion that Subaru is using a softer rubber in later models to reduce NVH for good reviews, but means more transmission movement. A trans mount insert will have slightly more NVH but less movement

5sp manual:  

https://whiteline.com.au/front-gearbox-mount-bushing-kit-to-suit-subaru-forester-impreza-liberty-outback-and-xv-9986-kdt956.html

4EAT / CVT automatic:  

https://rallitek.com/products/rallitek-4eat-transmission-mount-insert-bushing

5EAT / CVT (H6 & XT) automatic:                   

https://rallitek.com/products/rallitek-5eat-transmission-mount-insert-bushing

For multilink models, you can lift up to 2” front & 2.5” rear without needing subframe drops

For older models with MacPherson strut suspension all round, you can lift up to 2.5” front & 3” rear without needing subframe drops. 

NOTE: If you’re having CV issues, see FAQ #3 & #4

Stock front endlinks often start making a clunking noise on bumps after lifting. Replace with a longer heavy duty endlink. They may also flip on a SG Forester, esp on the rear.

Replacement endlinks will be added to the website shortly